FOOD AND DINING IN HAIFA BY EARL SHUGERMAN

When I immigrated to Haifa six years ago at the age of fifty nine, I was concerned about learning a new language, making friends, adjusting to a new culture and eating properly. Food was almost certainly my primary source of anxiety.

My fears were quickly removed. Israel has most American cuisine and much more to offer citizens and visitors. Bagel is a household name and in this day and age most Americans find that bagel and cream cheese is almost as common as mum and apple pie. Bagels and cream cheese are standing dining fares in many Israeli cafes. Smoked salmon is available but somewhat more difficult to find. Pizza Hut, McDonald’s, Burger King and Dominoes are an integral part of Israeli society. For those of us who can’t live without a Big Mac or Pizza Hut, don’t worry-be happy! Whilst the Hebrew language may date back five thousand years, the most universal words in this land seem to be ‘Shalom’ and ‘Pizza please’!



One of the wonderful things about living in a multicultural society like Israel is that there are many distinctive types of menus on offer. It is also common to sit at an eatery and to share dinner and conversation with people from a myriad of backgrounds in several languages. I am sitting at my favorite cafe, the Kapiot, listening to fellow diners conversing in Hebrew, Arabic, English, and Russian. The cafe is located in the Mercaz or center neighborhood or our city. The Baha’i Gardens is located a few hundred meters from here. Therefore, the neighborhood is filled with upscale hotels, a complete variety of restaurant choices, and numerous food stores.

The Israeli diet is rich in vegetables, fruit, salads, and dairy products. The staples of the Israeli diet are humus, falafel, and Israeli salad. Humus and falafel are chickpea products. Humus is a paste like form of chickpea usually eaten with pita bread. Falafel is chickpea formed into small balls, fried, and eaten in pita bread as a sandwich. Both are eaten with or without vegetables and several possible sauces. Israeli salad is a combination of tomatoes, cucumbers, onions, and parsley, served with Israeli salad dressing, a combination of salt, lemon and olive oil. These culinary treats are now enjoyed throughout the world.

Israelis enjoy a barbecue at least once a month. Lamb kebab, chicken breasts, beef flanks, and shawarma or roasted lambs are the favorite meat choices. Yes! Israelis do like a cold beer, a glass of wine and even Jack Daniels. The balmy climate and abundance of parks allow Haifa residents to enjoy their outings throughout much of the year.

Haifa is a sea front community that offers you the choice of dining in modern western style malls or traditional culinary spots. We have a 'tayelet' or boardwalk lined with cafes and food stands. There is dining on the seashore with the Mediterranean as an aesthetic backdrop. Due to the nature of the Israeli diet, food costs are often lower than in the United States. American style grocery stores abound in Israel, as do small local shops and the 'shuks' or outdoor markets. The larger grocery stores do carry American canned and packaged products such as Oreos and Campbell’s soup. They also offer non-grocery items such as health care products, beauty aids and clothing. Most stores and restaurants in Israel accept major credit cards although some accept only those issued in Israel. Most Tourist Bureaus offer a comprehensive list of local dining.






Earl Shugerman, a sixty four year old Oleh Hadash, immigrated to Haifa, Israel from Western Colorado in the United States. He was born and raised in Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania, and attended the University of New Mexico. Prior to moving to Israel, Earl worked in the State Government of Colorado and for other government agencies promoting employment services for people with disabilities. He is now retired and loves his new home of five years in Haifa where promoting dialogue between faiths and cultures as well as writing are his great passions. Many of E.J.'s stories about life in Haifa as a new immigrant have been published worldwide by well known websites. Earl received the AACI North Volunteer of 2013 award, which has been announced at the National AACI Annual General Meeting on June 2013. 

ARE WE AFRAID TO LIVE IN ISRAEL? BY JONA TAYLOR AND EARL SHUGERMAN

The question that I get asked the most often from friends, family, and visitors is "Are We Afraid to Live in Israel!"

Today is Thursday and therefore massage day. My massage therapist, Jona Taylor and her husband are immigrants to Israel from Colorado. It is September 2013 and once again the region is "heating up." Jona and I discussed our respective views about living under the constant threat of war and terrorism. This is Jona's perspective on the emotions associated with this life in a war engulfed region:

"All of you keeping up with the news are aware of what’s going on in Syria - of the instability there. When I lived in Colorado, I was a member of the Multi-Lingual International Club. I knew a woman named Strasia. She was from Syria. She seemed rather friendly until I mentioned my love for Israel. She distanced herself from me after that. She is now back in Syria. I sincerely hope that all is well. The conflicts in this region are felt all around the world.

Since the recent revolt in Egypt and the turmoil in Syria things seems to be changing in Haifa and throughout the country. You can feel a constant sense of fear and foreboding. Things are occurring that promote concern. Yesterday the Israeli government tested the air raid system. People here and throughout the country are rushing to buy gas masks. The Israeli Defense Forces called up of reservists.

Please watch this video:

Maybe they test sirens once a year one way or the other. According to my husband David, for many years in Chicago the city tested the air raid sirens every Tuesday at noon. No one paid attention. The USSR needed to be sure to attack Chicago on a Tuesday at noon. In Atlanta they test tornado sirens on a weekly basis. Since we’ve been here, the first test of the air raid siren was yesterday.

Our view of the Mediterranean allows us to see northward toward Syria and Lebanon. A lot of times we hear fighter planes zooming overhead, but can rarely see the planes. We have been told that Israeli jets bombed arms depots in Syria three times in the recent weeks.

We try to listen to both the English and Hebrew news. The leaders of Syria, Iran, and Hezbollah have threatened to attack Israel if Syria is punished by The United States and other nations for the atrocity of murdering their own citizens with chemical weapons. The citizens of Israel have lived under constant threat of conflict and destruction since the rebirth of the nation in 1948.

Anyway, my husband David told me to always be aware. Israel is officially in a heightened state of alert. David managed to frighten the devil out of me. Obviously, I knew that something like this could happen even before we moved to Israel. It is one thing to understand something in the abstract and another to experience it firsthand. David said whatever Syria or Lebanon or Hezbollah does to Israel, that they will suffer worse damage. It is a small comfort indeed!"

I, and most Israelis, feel the same way as Jona. The constant threat of annihilation has most people in this small and brave nation in a constant state of tension and readiness.

Am I (Earl) and others afraid to live in Israel? Yes, of course the constant fear of destruction is always there and a part of life in this beleaguered nation. Yet, the joys of building our Jewish homeland are worth it to many of us and life does indeed go on.

A BRUSH WITH THE LAW BY ZELDA DVORETZKY

I was on the #30 bus, indulging in my favorite en route pastime, people-watching, when an interesting group came aboard. They were obviously visitors to Haifa, and each wore a large tag with his or her name and country. I asked my neighboring rider, a pleasant woman from the Philippines, who they were, and she said they were all judges taking a course in the Faculty of Law at the University of Haifa.

After I got home I phoned the University, found the coordinator of the project, got permission to write about the course and its participants.

Yesterday I rode #30 to its last stop, the University, and found my way to the handsome building that houses the Faculty of Law.

Kalanit Kleemer, who coordinates the program, told me that it is called the International Academy for Judges, and that it is an intensive course for jurists from all over the world. The 22 participants come from Bosnia, Ethiopia, Kenya, the Philippines, Poland, Ruanda, Spain, Thailand, the United States and, with the largest contingent, five judges from Uganda. There also is one judge from Israel.

The program consists of three week-long courses, each on a different aspect of the law, and the participants meet for eight hours a day, six days a week. Classes are conducted by faculty members and visiting professors, including one from Brandeis University in Massachusetts.

The classes are intensive and on a very high level, in keeping with the status of the participants, who occupy important positions in the legal systems of their respective countries. Two of the Ugandan judges, and the one from Thailand, sit on their nations’ Supreme Courts.

The idea for the International Academy for Judges originated with its two directors. One is Professor Eli Satzberger, former Dean of Faculty, whose special interests include legal theory and the relationship between economics and the law. His colleague in the project is retired judge Amnon Carmi, who also heads the Center for Health, Law and Ethics. This is the second summer the Academy has been existence, and a number of the participants attended last year as well. Attendance in three consecutive programs can qualify these judges for the LL.M., an internationally recognized postgraduate law degree.

I was fortunate to meet one of the participants, Gena F. Cenit-Escoto of the Philippines, who is the presiding judge of Bran Morong Rizal. She told me that she participated last year because she wants to expand her knowledge of other systems of law as well as exchanging ideas with her colleagues in other parts of the world. Judge Cenit-Escoto also mentioned that she found the experience “…good, personally, culturally and spiritually “ in the classes and in the tours the Academy provides. In 2012, they visited Israel’s Supreme Court in Jerusalem, and this year, the Nazareth District Court. Group visits to many of the general points of interest in Israel, add another dimension to their enjoyment and understanding of this interesting and complex country.

The International Academy for Judges is supported by the Faculty of Law and Haifa University, as well as generous donations from the David Berg Foundation of New York.

My good fortune in taking that particular bus and meeting these remarkable people has led me to a fascinating and enriching experience, and Kalanit tells me that there are other international programs offered by Haifa’s university. I can’t wait to learn about them.

MANAGING ALONE BY SHARON AMOV

Again I sit alone in my nice little house, the day after making aliya to Israel. Then came the overwhelming question--how will I manage all alone without my husband?

The doorbell rings loudly. I was startled. Who could it be? 'Hi'--it's my neighbor from across the street.

'Welcome' I say—'I'm so very glad to see you'. I understood that she was from America also. She has so many suggestions for me. 'Why don't you join the senior center'? 'Me!! Oh no--I'm not that old', I say--never stopping to admit to myself or anyone else that my age of 85 is definitely old. 'Well, maybe', I say, 'I might try it'.

The next day I try it. In the bus to the senior center I notice that everyone is talking to each other---in Hebrew. I say 'hi' and 'shalom'. When we arrive at the I center everyone piles out of the bus and I join them. Two nice ladies greet us and one directs me to my first class.

Art, my favorite, I enter timidly. There are about twenty people in the room along with two teachers. I speak to one teacher, Malka. She is very nice and speaks English quite well. She brings me all I will need to start my drawing. I begin to draw and I enjoy it. The other people are all occupied with their work. I look around. Their obvious enjoyment as they work is catching. I guess that their ages range from about seventy to me.

During the following few weeks I begin to also take ceramics classes and exercise. My ability to entrench myself into a group has always been very easy for me.

This is no different except for the language difficulty.

I have begun to make a few acquaintances. They seem interested in me and I am certainly interested in them.

I begin to write about their lives and religious affiliations. The Zionists, the modern orthodox, the conservative, the kabalist.; the atheists and the charedi..

My access to the Israeli world has barely begun.

A NATION OF REMEMBRANCE - TISHA B'AV IN ISRAEL BY EARL SHUGERMAN

Today is Tisha B'Av the ninth of the Hebrew month Av. It is a day of commemoration mourning, and penance.

Understanding the culture of Israel is a great challenge to many new 'Olim' or immigrants like me. Israel is a nation where the Jewish faith and history are very much a part of daily life. It is a nation where the horrors of the Holocaust are not and must not be forgotten. We remember the destruction of the ancient temples in Jerusalem in our hearts and prayers. "Next Year in Jerusalem" is the prayer that mourns our past suffering, but also gives us hope for the present and future. Tisha B’Av is a day on which Jews commemorate these events. This day mourns the destruction of the First and Second Temples in Jerusalem and all suffering endured by the people of the Book. It is a day of fasting and other acts of observance. Businesses and schools may be open, depending on the type of service or affiliation.

My most satisfying experience in Israel was working in a 'Moadonit' or after school program in my Synagogue, Or Hadash in Haifa. This event occurred during Tisha B’Av in the summer of 2009. It helped me to understand the Israeli culture and appreciate the challenges, struggles, and at times great sorrows involved in building this nation.

Forty kids aged six to ten enjoyed various summer activities including volleyball, soccer, and dodge ball. The director, Yaffa, also gave a one hour presentation describing the building and destruction of both Temples. We also discussed the Holocaust and Israel’s Memorial Day. More than twenty thousand Israelis have died in open conflicts or by acts of terrorism since the rebirth of the Jewish state in 1948. The Holocaust is almost always in the minds and hearts of Israeli Jews. We must never forget the murders of millions whose only sin was being born Jewish or having Jewish ancestors.





We had a short question and answer period after the presentation. I was surprised that none of the kids complained or asked why we talked about these topics during summer fun time. I asked my two English speaking “friends” in the group Naomi (8) and Shachar (7) to explain everyone’s cooperation. Naomi spent two years in Boston and answered in wonderful English; “most Israeli kids understand that remembering the past protects us in the present and future”. Shachar, an American olah, agreed and showed great pride in her new Israeli citizenship.

The following day, we had a group of visitors from Boston come to visit the Synagogue. The group was composed of roughly one hundred adults and kids from a sister congregation. We enjoyed dinner together and then went on a tour of the Temple’s bomb shelter. The shelter is an area of three hundred square feet that also includes a separate bathroom, shower, and a first aid room. During the second war with Lebanon the twenty kids from our day school and fifty local children spent their days alternating between the shelter and our school facility. Each time a siren wailed the kids and staff ran down the three floors from the classroom to safety. Our previous past congregation president Jesse led the tour and explained to us that many Haifa residents left the city during the fighting but many chose to stay.





Jesse, who is a physician and American born, mentioned to me that my friend Naomi and her family chose to stay. Six years after immigrating to Israel I have sadly experienced the fighting in Gaza as a resident of Haifa. The need to seek safety in a bomb shelter is a terrifying experience. My friends and family in both Israel and Palestine went through the days filled with anxiety about their well being and that of others. Many of these people were raised with the need to sleep in safe places. Children were forced to miss classes; parents stayed away from work due to threat of missile attacks.

When will all of this ever end? History has taught the people of Israel and the Jewish nation that we must have a nation of our own. The options could be even far worse than the struggle to defend ourselves.




Earl Shugerman, a sixty four year old Oleh Hadash, immigrated to Haifa, Israel from Western Colorado in the United States. He was born and raised in Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania, and attended the University of New Mexico. Prior to moving to Israel, Earl worked in the State Government of Colorado and for other government agencies promoting employment services for people with disabilities. He is now retired and loves his new home of five years in Haifa where promoting dialogue between faiths and cultures as well as writing are his great passions. Many of E.J.’s stories about life in Haifa as a new immigrant have been published worldwide by well known websites. Earl received the AACI North Volunteer of 2013 award, which has been announced at the National AACI Annual General Meeting on June 2013.

APOCALYPSE LATER BY JONA TAYLOR

About six months ago, David and I discovered a couple of websites that allow us to watch American television on our computer. After almost a year of absolutely no TV, David and I have caught up on our favorite shows and then some. One totally unbelievable show we enjoy is called Walking Dead, a series about a Zombie apocalypse.

Well, the other night we discovered another totally unbelievable show called Falling Skies, a series about an alien apocalypse. Both shows are entertaining as long as you don't ask too many logical questions, like wouldn't aliens who have been able to travel light years through space have better technology than what they are using? You know, questions like that…

David and I were talking about all these apocalyptic shows coming from the US and wondering what's going on in our homeland to inspire such bleak futuristic scenarios. I think it stems from the economy and that fact that Americans know deep in their soul that global capitalism as currently practiced is unsustainable.

Many of our friends expressed concern when we decided to move to Israel, since American news depicts Israel as a war zone. What's more, many Americans believe that Israel is Armageddon central. Israel has a lot of problems, some are uniquely Israel, some are inherent in the Middle East, and some are problems nations around the world share. But being in Israel, and living under the threat of attack from Syria, Lebanon, Iran, etc, doesn't feel like Armageddon at all. In fact, I feel more hopeful living in Israel than living in the U.S.

Instead of an apocalyptic fantasy, I have a different vision. I see something I couldn't see in the Home of the Free and the Brave, but here in the Promised Land, the land flowing with milk and honey and see it clear and strong.

Over time, I see relations improving between Israel and its neighbors. Instead of making war, I envision Israelis and the Palestinian people learning how to forgive and other people of other nations learning the same.

Rather than fighting over oil, the countries in the Middle East begin to harness sunlight for a renewable energy source. From there, I can imagine countries of the world working together for clean air, clean water, restoring the oceans, and replanting forests. Like David Ben Gurion, I can see the desert bloom even beyond Israel into Egypt and further.

I see politicians and business executives leading with integrity and compassion instead of self-interest and greed. I imagine a world where sharing is more important than consuming; where boys and girls, men and women, gay and straight, believers and non-believers, liberals and conservatives are free to grow, to explore, to dream, and to strive toward their greatest potential. To paraphrase Martin Luther King Jr.: 'I have a dream where people are judged not by the color of their skin, or their gender, or their looks, or their weight, or their age, or their IQ, or their religion, or their level of education, or their country of birth, or their social status, or their net worth, but they are judged by the content of their character'.

Yep, that's the world I see. It'll never happen, you say? Neither will a zombie apocalypse.



Jona Taylor is a semi-retired massage therapist and a freelance writer living in Haifa, Israel. To read more about her adventures in Israel go to http://bumblingthruisrael.wordpress.com

DECEMBER IN HAIFA BY ZELDA DVORETZKY

It was my first December in Haifa and my first Festival of Festivals. In this, the City of Coexistence, the Festival celebrates major holidays of the three Abrahamic religions. Christmas is the only one with a fixed date, and Chanukah’s  has gained more popularity by its proximity to Christmas than by its intrinsic importance in the Jewish calendar. The holiday of Id el Fitter also is celebrated, even though the Muslim religious calendar is even more at odds with the Gregorian than is the lunar calendar we follow. So December it was, and is, and what a December!

There were street events and fairs, concerts, performances for children and adults, illuminations and a general air of celebration all over Haifa.

All my previous Decembers had been full of decorated homes, stores and trees, crèches, gift shopping, traditional family meals. There were performances of Messiah, Deck the Halls and White Christmas on the air, re-runs of Miracle on Thirty-Fourth Street and It’s a Wonderful Life on television. I had to search the racks for non-denominational holiday cards to send to colleagues and non-Jewish friends, and depended on the synagogue gift shops for my Chanukiah candles. And when we lit them at our front windowsill, they were beautiful, but almost lost in the red and green glory of our neighbors’ holiday decorations.

So when my neighbor puts his children’s school art work of angels and decorated trees, mangers and wise men, Madonna and Child in the window, and hung a wreath on their front door, I knew how they felt. And I felt wonderful, chanting the blessing as I lit the candles I had bought in the neighborhood supermarket, and singing Maoz Tsur.

My neighbor’s children are all grown up now, and there are other Christian families and a Muslim family as well in the building. We coexist comfortably as neighbors and friends, and think of ourselves as lights to the world, not just red and green, but also blue and white.




Zelda Dvoretzky was born in New Jersey and grew up in New York. She earned degrees from City College of New York and the University of Michigan, after which she wrote copy for the electronic and print media, and worked in public relations, editing and teaching. She retired to Haifa in 1997, is a member of Haifa Writers, Israel, an organization of writers of poetry in English, and the Haifa Chamber Choir. Zelda stays busy learning Hebrew, teaching English, and keeping in touch with grandchildren, family and friends in Texas, California, and, of course, Haifa. zeldahaifa@gmail.com

A FEW WORDS ABOUT THE AACI ASSOCIATION OF AMERICANS AND CANADIANS IN ISRAEL BY EARL SHUGERMAN

English speaking Olim have a myriad of organisations and groups to support their new life in Israel. The largest private organisation that supports all English speaking Olim is the AACI (Association of Americans and Canadians in Israel). It has offices throughout Israel. Twenty five thousand English speaking Israelis belong to this wonderful organization.

The author of this article is especially appreciative of the AACI’s sterling work. The efforts of Yanina Muskinow their representative for the north proved invaluable during my acclimation. AACI, a voluntary, non-profit organization, was established in 1951 to help North American immigrants acclimate to Israeli society and to build strong ties between North American Jewish communities and Israel. AACI is governed by a lay board and administered by a professional staff. Its many activities are financed through the support of foundations, annual membership dues, an annual fundraising drive and private donations.




AACI provides a wealth of services and programs to cater for its membership:
- Professional counseling on Aliyah and Klitah (absorption)
- Employment Resource Center
- Emergency, mortgage and small business loans
- Support groups
- Advice Sessions: tax, banking, translation and more
- Legal consultations
- Blood bank privileges
- The AACI Cohen Library for the Visually Impaired
- Senior Outreach

AACI Acts can move mountains when its members’ welfare is at stake.
AACI Acts:
- Lobbied successfully to modify the effect of new Israeli tax laws on immigrants;
- Produced and distributed a free Emergency Handbook and held gas mask demonstrations prior to and during the Gulf War;
- Confronted the social, economic and psychological pressures affecting its membership through the Seniors Outreach Project.
- AACI Community offers a warm and welcoming environment, with special programs targeting families, young adults, mid-lifers and seniors. Members participate in:
- Welcome Home events for new olim (immigrants)
- Home Hospitality
- 4th of July/Canada Day & Thanksgiving Celebrations
- AACI Travel Experience & Study Vacations
- Social and Cultural Programs,
- Lectures and more including (our new Writers' Group?)

The challenges of immigrating to this amazing and complicated nation have been overwhelming to me at times. I have often said to myself should I return to my native United States? There is a new language to learn, a diverse and complicated culture to understand and sadly ongoing security threats from within and our neighbors. Yet, I am still here six years later thanks in great part to the support of my friends at AACI.







Earl Shugerman, a sixty four year old Oleh Hadash, immigrated to Haifa, Israel from Western Colorado in the United States. He was born and raised in Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania, and attended the University of New Mexico. Prior to moving to Israel, Earl worked in the State Government of Colorado and for other government agencies promoting employment services for people with disabilities. He is now retired and loves his new home of five years in Haifa where promoting dialogue between faiths and cultures as well as writing are his great passions. Many of E.J.'s stories about life in Haifa as a new immigrant have been published worldwide by well known websites. Earl received the AACI North Volunteer of 2013 award, which has been announced at the National AACI Annual General Meeting on June 2013.

HERE I AM AGAIN, ALONE BY SHARON AMOV

My dear husband died a few years ago. I was desolate. The loneliness was overwhelming. I missed him terribly. For many years I struggled to regain my balance, and then I decided to move to Israel, to live near my daughter and family, who made aliyah fifteen years ago.

I peer out of the aeroplane window. I see the outline of Israel's shoreline. Many people in the plane are clapping as we approach the land.

What will it be like to actually LIVE in Israel?. I have visited my daughter and my family so often, but always with my husband. To reside alone in Israel, although I had made the decision by myself, seems absolutely unreal...

I was born and raised in Southern California. I am eighty-four years of age and I am scared.

My daughter and son-in-law will be waiting for me in the public area. I pick up my luggage and off I go.

There she is, my one and only daughter....waving at me, all smiles. Perhaps she is expecting me to be exactly as she had last seen me, a year or so ago. And I expect her to be as I had last seen her. Oh, our expectations, how very difficult, if not impossible, to meet.

How unprepared I am for the depth of pain, separation from relatives in the United States, and lifetime friends, along with familiar voices and places.

We manage to arrive at the car in the airport parking lot, numb with our own overwhelming feelings. We drive to the nice little house that my daughter and son-in-law

have prepared for me. The physical work is ahead of me. The mental and emotional work will be a daily project.

I have plopped right down in the middle of relationships and lives that have been going on without me for fifteen years. I know that my main priority is to somehow keep myself separate and still stay close. How very difficult that is.

We go for a drive, to once again see the lovely Israeli countryside. I lose my way in its twisting roads, unfamiliar buildings and lush green fields. The people seem helpful but not overly friendly.

We return 'HOME'. I sit alone and the enormity of my move to Israel engulfs me. How will I find a comfortable place within my family again? How will I make new friends, develop interests and start anew at my age?

Well, we shall see. However, in the meantime, here I am alone again.

O JERUSALEM, OY JERUSALEM BY JONA TAYLOR, DR. DAVID BLUM AND EARL SHUGERMAN

Surprises and Joys in Israel!

I enjoy having a massage twice a month. My massage therapist, Jona, also immigrated to Haifa Israel from Colorado. She and her husband David are in my age range. They immigrated to Haifa six months ago. We love to share stories about our views, experiences and yes, adventures, as new immigrants to the land of Canaan. This is a post about their first visit to Jerusalem and mine.

Earl Speaks: My favorite trip was to Israel's capital, Jerusalem to visit the Tower of David, where King David composed the 23rd psalm. When I finish my tour in the Tower of David, I dined at my beloved Arab restaurant, where I enjoy the cuisine of traditional Arab cooking accompanied by a Miller Light. Then, I crossed the street towards The Tomb of Jesus, where I am always inspired by the visit. It still amazes me that the distance between The Tower of David, my favorite traditional Arab restaurant and the Tomb of Jesus is less than one hundred meters.

I visited The Western Wall, or Kotel. It is a remnant of the ancient wall that surrounded the ancient Jewish Temple's courtyard, and is one of the most sacred sites in Judaism outside of the Temple Mount itself. According to the Tanakh, or Bibe in Hebrew, Solomon's Temple was built atop the Temple Mount in the 10th century BCE and destroyed by the Babylonians in 586 BCE. The Second Temple was completed and dedicated in 516 BCE. Two thousand years ago Jews were expected to pray there.. According to classical Jewish belief, the Temple acted as the figurative "footstool" of God's presence and a Third one will be built there in the future. Many Jews and non- Jews believe that the rebirth of Israel in 1948 is the fulfillment of this prophecy.

Jonah speaks: After being in Israel for nearly three months, we finally left Haifa and took a day-trip to Jerusalem. David’s nephew — heretofore called Zach since he didn’t give us permission to use his real name — is studying at a Yeshiva in Jerusalem for six months. A Yeshiva is an Orthodox Jewish college or seminary. It is always a delight to spend time with Zach. He gave us a walking tour of Jerusalem.

We travelled from Haifa to Jerusalem by train. The trip normally is about an hour. The train ride from Haifa to Jerusalem was delayed at Beit Shemesh for about 30 minutes. This is the town where the incident occurred where a member of the Haredi spit on Jewish girl for not dressing modestly enough. Although my arms and legs were covered, I was a bit nervous about my modern dress and liberal approach to Judaism. It is a sad commentary on life in Israel that conflicts about religious ideology are common. These conflicts are both among and between followers of faiths.

When we arrived in Jerusalem, it was well past lunch time. We met Zach at the mall, and instead of partaking in some of Jerusalem’s better food offerings, we ate in the food court in the mall. Zach opted for McDonald’s since it was one of the 30% that are kosher in the city. While we were eating, a nice old woman came by with a plastic cup. I didn't quite understand what she wanted, but Zach gave her a few shekels and she went away.

First of all, there are two Jerusalem’s, so to speak. Modern Jerusalem is equivalent to cities in the United States, complete with malls of grandeur, high rise apartments a modern transportation system and fabulous malls.. You can find almost any products here that are sold in America. Many of the stores are the same. We can shop at Ace Hardware and eat at McDonald's. The Jerusalem mall where we met Zach could have been Any Mall in the USA. English is widely spoken. The mall like much of the architectural in this glorious city is picturesque, Many of the houses, apartments and other buildings are built on and along the winding hills of this beautiful and ancient city In fact, Jerusalem is one of the most beautiful cities that I ever visited. The physical beauty and spiritual glory of Jerusalem make it a wonderful place to visit. Zach asked me how many cities that I have visited. That’s hard to say, but most are in the states. I would gage the number to be at least thirty.

Zach said he was helping the needy, or giving tzadakah, David called the old woman a 'schnorer', although he admitted she was nice about it. Then, or as they say in Hebrew, ah-har-chok (I’m not going to tell you how I remember that word) another 'schnorer' came by wanting money. She even had a little brochure. When we didn't give her any money, she took her brochure back with a huff.

The night before going to Jerusalem I was kind of worried about riding the city bus — with the potential for bombings and other security issues. Nevertheless, once there, I got onto buses and trains without a second thought. Two days later, David read me a news story about how a female Israeli soldier was stabbed by a Palestinian on the same train-line we rode.

In Haifa, we have a bus pass that is good for buses within the city. In other words, we wouldn’t be able to use the pass to take a bus from Haifa to Jerusalem or Tel Aviv, it can only be used in Haifa. Well, the same bus system is used throughout Israel, and so we tried to use our pass on the Jerusalem city bus It worked! We were given a transfer, and on the city-train a transit official was checking for passes.

Well, maybe he saw something on the transfer that indicated Haifa instead of Jerusalem, and he demanded to see David’s ID. He took the ID and kept it for almost the entire ride. While he had the ID, it was kind of scary because we had no idea what was going on or even why he wanted it in the first place. Were we going to be thrown off the train? Arrested? Forced to pay 6.60 shekels (around $1.75) for the fare? The trip took maybe 15 minutes, and the security official held onto the ID almost the entire time. After making several phone calls, presumably to verify David’s veracity, the ID was returned and we proceeded toward Old Jerusalem.

Old Jerusalem is a walled city, a citadel. The outer wall was destroyed and later rebuilt by the Ottomans so is only 500 years old, young compared to many of the inner walls of which might be 2000 years or older. There are parts of Old J. that are drivable, as in one-way only and be prepared to go about 5mph. Most of Old J. must be walked as the streets are too narrow and since Jerusalem is built on hills, steps to go up and down. All the roads in Old Jerusalem are paved with rectangular tiles, the same off-white/light-tan materials of which the buildings are constructed. The tiled streets are smooth and well-worn: a lot of traffic goes through the city. Throughout Old Jerusalem are plenty of shops, street vendors, and small food markets.

There are four quarters in Old Jerusalem: Armenian, Jewish, Arab and Christian, although Armenians are Christians too (Eastern Orthodox).

As we entered the archway of Old J., there were a couple of people begging or 'schnorering'. We found ourselves in the Armenian sector, and I was amazed at how much of a tourist trap Old Jerusalem can be. I mean it is a tourist trap to the max. We wandered through the Armenian sector down alleyways and side streets into the Jewish Quarter and went to the Western Wall. Where else?

Going down the steps to the Wall we came upon even more 'schnorers'. One guy came up to David and started praying in his ear, all in Hebrew of course. I watched the man as he was whispering his prayer to David. It seemed to me it was all a big scam to rip-off tourists. For all we know instead of prayers, the guy was hurling insults and saying vulgarities. Finished with the prayer, he expected payment. David gave him a few shekels and the fellow was not pleased,

When we were in the Arab Quarter a little boy saw Zach and ran up to him and went, “R-rr-ow!” I thought he was being a cute, a rambunctious kid. Neither Zach nor the boy’s father thought it was cute. Then I realized that the reason the boy did that may have been because he is Palestinian. He may have been taught that Jews are bad, evil, and even need to be killed. David told me that same kid threw a rock at us but missed. Perhaps he was just a kid acting silly, I hope that is the case. I was so entranced with the Old City that I didn’t notice any tensions at all in the Arab section. But David said that he did and felt uncomfortable there.

I had seen pictures of the Wall It looked pretty much like the photographs. We had to go through a security check and found ourselves in a huge courtyard. I went to the female side and David and Zach went to the male side. The female side was really crowded and there were hundreds of orthodox women praying and reading at the Wall.

I’m sorry to say, the area around the Wall didn’t feel like a Holy Place to me. It also felt like a tourist trap. When I was at the wall, I looked up hoping to see G-d, and I saw a beautiful blue sky. I didn’t feel closer to G-d at the wall of course, feeling close or connected to G-d is something I never feel and have never felt. I’m so jealous of those people who have that connection. I classify myself as a hiloni or non- religious. Sixty per cent of Israelis are "hilonim"

So after leaving the wall, we walked around "The Old City". This ancient city is so exciting. There are tunnels and interesting paths…it’s hard to describe. Individual quarters are not marked, so you don’t know when you’re leaving the Armenian Quarter and entered the Jewish Quarter. Nevertheless, we visited all the Quarters, including the Arab Quarter.

Here’s what David didn’t like about Jerusalem: the 'schnorering'.

Here’s what I didn’t like about Jerusalem: nothing. Yes, it does snow and can get very cold in Jerusalem, and I don’t like that, but the weather was fine the day we came. I liked everything about the city. The city has it all! If Israel is the center of religious/political controversy and global unrest, Jerusalem is the hub.

Zach, if you are reading this, here are some of the cities I’ve been in: Jerusalem, Tel Aviv, Haifa, London, Edinburgh, New York, Boston, Chicago, Atlanta, Miami, New Orleans, Denver, Phoenix, Washington DC, Seattle, San Francisco, San Diego, Tijuana, Belize City, Matamoros, Dallas, Houston, Amarillo, Kansas City, Minneapolis, Oklahoma City, Portland, San Jose, Oakland, Sacramento, Salt Lake City, Mazatlan, Nashville, Cleveland, Vancouver, Baltimore, and your home town of Louisville to name a few.

FLAT ON MY BACK IN HAIFA ISRAEL BY JONA TAYLOR

My massage therapist and I are both new immigrants to Haifa Israel. We both trace our roots back to Colorado in the United States. This story is both about Jonah's experiences and about the cultural challenges faced by immigrants to Israel.




When I was in the United States, explains Jonah, I studied massage and reflexology at the Colorado School of Reflexology in Denver, and at Harbin in California. Although I had the training, I never worked professionally as a massage therapist because I wanted to do something more important with my life, but it looked like that’s never going to happen. Moving to Israel and not speaking the language, has me doing massage therapy. It would seem to be a perfect way to make an income especially until my husband David finds a job.

Also, since I’m older now, and my youthful beauty has been replaced by a big fat stomach the likelihood of getting hired for a “real” job is greatly diminished. Sadly, many of our friends and neighbors have experienced age and gender issues in seeking employment in Israel. Human behavior is the same everywhere.

We chose a two bedroom/1 bath apartment, which in Israel is called a three room apartment. The three rooms are the living room and two bedrooms: the kitchen and bathroom are assumed. The building is on what deceitfully appears to be a quiet street. It is quiet in the evenings — after say midnight — and all day on Shabbat. The rest of the time it is pretty noisy with cars, buses and people. What’s weird is the street really isn’t that busy, but it is still loud here nonetheless. Israelis are not quiet people. They love the "brogus" which is a mild dispute accompanied by lots of loud yelling and animated body language. The brogus is a public display most often found in grocery stores, the post office and in any situation involving motor vehicles. Driving is a night mare in this country. I and many of my friends will not buy cars or even drive in this place.

We wanted a place with an extra bedroom so that I can do massage. It is a good room for massage in being away from the street and having a tremendous view of the Mediterranean Sea and the Haifa port.

Purchasing a massage table was another story. One woman wanted to sell me a table that she used for facials. It was a fine table but not a real massage table. I wisely decided to keep looking and found a massage table dealer in Tel Aviv. He made it sound like he had a warehouse full of massage tables and we schlepped to Tel Aviv to purchase to look at it. His warehouse was a small one-room apartment with about five boxes of new tables. He demonstrated the table and promised it was sturdy and came with a year guarantee. The table was made in China so I had my doubts, but we couldn’t find a table anywhere else so we bought it. I’ve done enough massages to pay for things and now I am in the process of buying sheets and sheets and sheets just in case I actually get busy. Unfortunately, it creaks and squeaks and gives me concerns about breaking and I really doubt the table has a warranty.

What’s more, the dealer said the table was very light-weight and transportable. He carried it for me to the bus stop, and then it was my turn. What was he talking about? That thing weighs a ton. I almost fell over getting on and off the train with that thing. Anyway, it’s home now and business is coming in drubs and drabs.

The good thing about having clients come to the apartment is you have to keep it clean. The bad thing about having clients come to the apartment is you have to keep it clean all the time. Let’s face it, I’m not busy enough to schedule clients at my convenience so I have to give massages at their convenience. In Israel it is a habit to call and want to show up in the next hour or so. If the place is dirty, David and I have to scramble to get the room ready and make the place presentable. I have this toilet thing and won’t do bathrooms. Ick. So that’s David’s job.

Well anyway David’s nephew, Zack, called and wanted to know what we were doing. We knew that meant he was coming for a few days. David asked me if I wanted him and I said okay. Two hours later Zack arrived. In spite of Zack’s good upbringing, he has turned Orthodox. Israel is a very non- sectarian society in day to day life. Sixty per cent of Israelis refer to themselves as "Hilonim" or not observant. Ten per cent of Israelis are orthodox or "Haredim". That being the case, Zack can’t eat our food or even use our kitchen supplies. Actually, this is good because I don’t have to cook for him. We have a couch that folds out into a bed, and we were somewhat set for company.

In repayment for our hospitality Zack made a massage flyer for me to post at different areas in town. I did, and received two phone calls. When it comes to advertising, there’s one little problem. I don’t speak Hebrew well enough to understand what someone is saying. The first call was blown. The second call, however, was from a guy who spoke broken English. With my broken Hebrew and his English we managed to make an appointment. It was one of those things where he would be there in an hour.

We hadn’t really cleaned the place up since Zack left and scurried to make the place presentable and the client was here before I could put sheets on the massage table. He looked around and said he would call again in an hour and seemed more curious about the bedroom than the massage room.

Uh-oh. It’s a good thing David was home and he said, “That guy wasn't interested in a therapeutic massage, he wanted the other kind.”

Oh boy, I’m a "professional" now. Well, not really, but apparently some people who are reading my sign think so.


Jona Taylor is a massage therapist and freelance writer living in Haifa, Israel. For more of her misadventures in Israel you can read her blog at www.bumblingthruisrael.wordpress.com

MIDSUMMER RAMADAN BY ZELDA DVORETSKY

Ramadan began a few days ago. I don’t ever remember it falling during the hot months, but the Islamic religious calendar is a lunar one, not bound by the season. The Jewish religious calendar also is lunar, but different. Our High Holidays generally arrive some time in autumn, though this year they happen to come rather earlier than usual.

I found myself thinking how much more difficult it must be to observe a strict fast from sun up to sundown when the days are so long and hot. Even drinking water is forbidden. Perhaps the body gets used to it, since Ramadan is observed for an entire month. It isn’t a solemn festival. People celebrate with delicious meals after the sun goes down and right before it rises in the morning.

I found our Yom Kippur fast, equally stringent, but occurring only once a year, increasingly difficult as I grew older. And when the weather was warm, it seemed to be harder physically. I also remember what a source of pride it was for me to be considered old enough to observe it; a real rite of passage.



The city put on a street concert last Tuesday night at the Merkaz ha Carmel – the Carmel Center. Streets were blocked all day as they put up a stage, lights, a monster sound system and a huge screen to project the performances. The venue was in my part of the city, and the only way I could get to my chorus rehearsal was to take a circuitous detour through the lower town. I don’t drive here, but my daughter was kind enough to give me ride and it was a chance for us to visit while we sat in traffic. As it was, what usually is a 20-minute bus ride took an hour!

After rehearsal I got a lift from a fellow alto who lives a few blocks from the Merkaz. The concert was still going full blast at ten-thirty, and after being “wanding my way” through the security barrier, I had to thread my way through a mass of happy young people of every hue and ethnicity, eating, drinking, dancing, singing and hugging each other. It hadn’t been announced as a Ramadan concert as far as I knew. I think most of them were celebrating the end of the school year. The venue was blocked at both ends, and I had to pass through another security station to continue on my way. One of the security guards cleared the way for me with a genial 'Laila Tov, Safta' (Good night, Grandma).

As I turned the corner into Hanassi (President) Boulevard the absence of noise and strong lights was palpable and welcome. On the twenty-minute walk home, I noticed that a corner house whose lovely garden I always admired was decorated with fairy lights and a neon crescent-and-star. A couple was sitting and drinking coffee. I wished them 'Ramadan Karim' (Great Ramadan), using my one of my few phrases of Arabic. They thanked me in Hebrew.




Zelda Dvoretzky was born in New Jersey and grew up in New York. She earned degrees from City College of New York and the University of Michigan, after which she wrote copy for the electronic and print media, and worked in public relations, editing and teaching. She retired to Haifa in 1997, is a member of Haifa Writers, Israel, an organization of writers of poetry in English, and the Haifa Chamber Choir. Zelda stays busy learning Hebrew, teaching English, and keeping in touch with grandchildren, family and friends in Texas, California, and, of course, Haifa. zeldahaifa@gmail.com

GAZING OUT MY WINDOW AT THE MEDITERRANEAN SEA IN HAIFA BY DR. DAVID BLUM

Gazing out my window at the Mediterranean Sea in Haifa, I cannot help but think that about 80 miles west of my apartment lies what many believe is the key to Israel’s energy independence. Israel discovered two major natural gas fields in the Mediterranean: Tamar in 2009 and Leviathan in 2010. The Tamar field started to flow gas in March 2013 and the Leviathan field is expected to come online between 2015 and 2017. Combined, the fields hold approximately 900 billion cubic meters of natural gas. Approximately 40% of the gas is expected to be exported to Jordan, the Palestinian Authority, and Europe. Retaining 60% of the natural gas is supposed to make Israel energy independent.

Experts tell us that the natural gas fields hold enough gas to supply the country’s energy needs for the next 20 years. Twenty years of natural gas reserves will last about one generation. To put this in perspective, if you have a five year old today, by the time your son or daughter leaves college and enters the workforce, Israel’s energy independence could be a memory.

Although natural gas burns cleaner than petroleum, as you can see, natural gas is not a sustainable source of energy.

Currently, most of Israel’s electricity comes from coal. The nations of South Africa, Colombia, and Australia provide the majority of coal used in Israel. Israel’s oil requirements come from the North Sea region, Mexico, the Caucasus region, and Nigeria. A repeat of Operation Cast Lead, in which Israel launched an attack on Gaza to stop the rocket attacks by Hamas, could motivate these nations to stop selling Israel oil and coal.

Since 20 years is not a long time, Israelis need to know how Netanyahu and future Israeli government leaders will choose to spend the monetary surplus derived from the natural gas proceeds.

I submit that the Israeli government must invest the natural gas proceeds toward building a sustainable and renewable energy infrastructure with the private sector to support long-term solutions toward energy independence for the next seven generations and beyond.

Israel has experience with solar energy, a free and sustainable source of electricity. Approximately 90% of hot water heaters in Israel are solar powered. Ever wondered why your apartment (flat) or house is not completely powered by solar energy? Have you considered why Israeli transportation vehicles use oil rather than clean burning, renewable, and sustainable sources of fuel? Will our leaders be wise to properly invest the funds?

In future blogs, I will provide answers to these questions and outline how by using renewable and sustainable energy sources, Israel can become energy independent within the next 20 years. I plan to discuss various sustainability issues as well. Please submit your comments.

Bio:

Dr. David Blum holds a doctor of business administration degree and a master of business administration degree in sustainable business. Dr. Blum is a sustainability consultant in Haifa Israel and in the United States. Dr. Blum can be reached at david@greenwolfconsulting.com, in Israel at 052 6055960 or in the U.S. at 650.924.9303.

NEVER TOO LATE TO FIND MY VOICE BY ZELDA DVORETZKY

It happened unexpectedly, not in a tourist area but at a neighborhood salon where I was getting my hair cut. A man and woman about my age were speaking American English, from somewhere on the Eastern seaboard! In Israel, where the term “anglo” can refer to people from the UK, Canada, Australia, New Zealand, South Africa, to find a couple whose speech was so close to mine was unusual. I had to say hello.


That’s how I met Susan and Dick, who came to Israel in 1948. Dick had volunteered for the Israeli Navy during the War of Independence. Susan is a poet. We became friends, and she gave me several books of her poetry. She also introduced me to a group she belonged to, Voices Israel.


I’ve always been a word person, writing stories, teaching English, editing, writing press releases, ads and commercials, a humor column for a weekly newspaper, even doggerel for birthdays and special occasions; fun but nothing I thought worth keeping.


Thanks to Voices, I began looking at the world with a poet’s eyes, and I began to write poetry. My new friends immersed me in the art, and the rich texture of Israeli life and the beauty of Haifa provided more subjects than I have time to explore.


Most people think of Israel as “the start-up nation” or as bronzed pioneers making the desert bloom. It has, indeed, a tradition of literature in its reborn language, Hebrew. But it also is home to a group of people who write poetry in English.


Voices, Israel was born in 1971, its mission to encourage writers of English poetry, nurture their gifts, and promote international friendships through poetry. It has grown to more than 150 members in Israel and abroad. There are meetings where poets read their works and critique each other, intense workshops where creativity flowers, and anthologies of poems, written by members and other contributors from around the world and published annually. I’ve submitted a number of my poems, and I can’t describe the joy of seeing some of them in print.


The group sponsors an annual competition, named for its founder, and keeps members apprised of other competitions and outlets for their work. A monthly newsletter and a website, www.voicesisrael.com, serve as sources for this and other information about the world of poetry.


It has been an unexpected delight for me to have entered this world as I entered my ninth decade – and all because of a chance meeting at the hairdresser’s.

BUYING A BED IN ISRAEL BY JONA TAYLOR

Before moving to Israel, David and I sold all our furniture, and left the rest of our household belongings in storage. We knew shipping a bunch of furniture to Israel would be very expensive, and wanted to wait until we bought an apartment before bringing our stuff in. The temporary place we rented in Haifa was furnished. It was a two-bedroom apartment. In one bedroom there was a bed frame with a mattress. The other bedroom had a bed frame and box springs used as a mattress. Really!

When we rented our first apartment in Haifa, the landlord gave us some furniture including a bed. The bed was really small and uncomfortable, and David's shoulder is all messed up because of sleeping on it. When the landlord sold the apartment we found a larger space in an apartment building in the same neighborhood. It was time to purchase a real bed.

First, David and I investigated beds in a local mall. Wow! The bed stores carried some really fancy beds that had some really cool features like being able to slant your legs and up upwards which was supposed to make for healthier sleeping. The frames were made so that you could store stuff underneath the mattress. Those beds cost over 10,000 shekels or about 2500 dollars.

Since we don't need a super-deluxe, fancy-dancy bed, David and I looked elsewhere. Hadar is a neighborhood in the older part of town, near the downtown area which is jammed packed with people and traffic. A few of the Hadar streets are lined with stores displaying their wares on the sidewalk, much like you often see in Mexico. You can bargain with owners on price for the so-so quality stuff. And, there is a bed store in Hadar. The clerks speak passable English.

The bed store was stuffed full of mattresses and basic frames, with a narrow aisle giving barely enough room to walk. In a regular bed store, there would be several sample beds set up so you could lay down on the beds and see how they might look in your house. This store had none of that, all the mattresses were lined on their sides and frames upended in the back room. The place also sold couches and chair beds which took up a lot of space.

We asked about a bed, and the shopkeeper showed us a nice mattress. Just pushing on it, David could tell it was too squishy to support his back.

"Something firm," he told the shopkeeper.

"Foam, yes we have foam mattresses."

"No, firm mattresses, hard."

"Ah, yes, strong."

The shopkeeper showed us another mattress that was indeed firmer. But David said, "I can't purchase a mattress without laying on it first." He looked around the store, "I've never seen anything like this, usually the mattresses are stored in the back, and you can lay on the beds."

"No problem, you can lay," the shopkeeper explained. He had one of his employees take the mattress outside where still more mattresses and chairs were on display. The employee took an upended frame and put it together then the men hauled out the mattress so David could lie on the bed.

Yep, outside on the sidewalk…

“Hey, this is really comfortable, you should try it,” David said to me.

“I can’t, there’s people walking by. We’re outside.”

“No, it’s okay. This bed is great.”

So I lay on the bed, and stared up the sky while people passing by stared at David and me.

He was right, the bed was really comfortable, so we bought it, and it cost much less than 10,000 shekels. We even negotiated the price down a couple of hundred shekels with same day delivery. You can’t beat that.

Jona Taylor is a massage therapist and freelance writer living in Haifa, Israel.  For more of her misadventures in Israel you can read her blog at www.bumblingthruisrael.wordpress.com

FRIENDSHIP - A POEM BY SHARON AMOV

HOW DO I MANAGE TO GET WITHIN
A GROUP OF PEOPLE WHO HAVE ALWAYS BEEN
TOGETHER FOR SO MANY YEARS?
IT BRINGS MY EYES TO TEARS.
BEING A NEW “KID” ON THE BLOCK
TAKES A LOT OF VERY SWIFT TALK
I HAVE NEVER BEEN SHY
AND I ALWAYS WILL TRY,
TO PUSH MYSELF WITHIN THE GROUP–
OR WITH EVEN WITH ONE 
VERY KIND LADY
MY VERY SOUL SEEMS TO LAG AND GROW SHADY.
DON’T GIVE UP I
ALWAYS SAY
KEEP THE INTEREST IN OTHERS TO PAVE THE WAY.

A DAY IN DALIAT AL CARMEL BY ZELDA DVORETZKY.

We gathered outside the train station at Hof ha Carmel; fifteen participants from Canada, the UK, Texas, Michigan, Florida, Maryland and New York. An announcement in the AACI (Association of Americans and Canadians in Israel) bulletin brought us there from Nahariya, Karmiel, Binyamina, Tel Aviv, Hod haSharon and Haifa on that breathlessly hot August morning to visit and learn about a culture that has been part of this area for a thousand years and a community that has been an integral part of Israel since before it became a state.

When we arrived we met the mayor of Dalia, Karmel Naser El Deen, who greeted us warmly and gave us a great deal of information about his town and other Druze communities here in the Western Galilee and elsewhere.

We learned about the history, achievements and, alas, some problems these wonderful people are dealing with now despite their deep commitment and services to Israel.

The Druze faith was established in Cairo in 1017, taking its popular name from Mohammad al Darazi, one of the founders. They call themselves Mowahhidoon, meaning Monotheists. While they do speak Arabic, read the Koran and revere major prophets of all three Abrahamic religions and other sages, their primary book of faith is the Kitab al Hikma, and their primary uniqueness is the belief in reincarnation. Other differences include not observing the Ramadan fast, not performing the Hadj(pilgrimage to Mecca), not praying five times a day, and not barring women from religious leadership.

There are about 120,000 Druze in Israel, 15,000 of them in Dalia, belonging to only 100 families. Druze are not allowed to marry outside the faith. Our delightful and knowledgeable guide, Arif Hassoon, greeted almost everyone we met on our walks around the town, mentioning that most of them were his cousins, except when we met his brother and waved to his aunt! We also saw quite a few banners displaying the five attributes of the Mowahhid faith, corresponding to the five points of the Druze star.

There are Druze communities all over the Middle East and elsewhere in the world, and everywhere they live they are patriotic citizens of that country. Their Druze identity is one thing, but their nationality is another. Every young Druze man here enters the Israeli Defense Forces at eighteen unless he is a member of the religious leadership, and many young girls volunteer for national service – generally in their own communities.

Almost 400 Druze soldiers have fallen in the wars Israel has endured, and there is a beautiful and moving memorial to them, the Yad Labanim that we visited. We heard a most informative talk by Amal Naser El Deen, a former member of the Israeli Parliament, Minister of Defense, and founder of the Yad Lebanim in Dalia. Among the interesting things he told us was that his people are fierce soldiers and mountain people, both because they have always been a minority wherever they live, and because of their belief in reincarnation; that at the moment of death, the soul enters an unborn child to be reborn when that child enters the world.

Mr. El Deen also was the founder of the Druze Zionist Organization, and told us that even before the emergence of the state in 1948, Druze people, as a minority within a minority, supported and identified with the Jewish people because here they always had “the freedom to be Druze” – a privilege not granted in other countries of the area.

We also were addressed by Samech Natur, a scholar and historian who publishes a newspaper in Arabic and English for the Druze community.

Mr. Natur gave us many new and interesting insights into the history and character of his people and their commitment and contributions to Israel.

All this information, together with our walks around this ancient and picturesque town and our conversations with its people, made our day in Daliat al Carmel – Dalia on the Carmel, a memorable an enjoyable one.

Zelda Dvoretzky was born in New Jersey and grew up in New York. She earned degrees from City College of New York and the University of Michigan, after which she wrote copy for the electronic and print media, and worked in public relations, editing and teaching. She retired to Haifa in 1997, is a member of Haifa Writers, Israel, an organization of writers of poetry in English, and the Haifa Chamber Choir. Zelda stays busy learning Hebrew, teaching English, and keeping in touch with grandchildren, family and friends in Texas, California, and, of course, Haifa.

zeldahaifa@gmail.com